MB Q&A: Toby Young, The Sound of No Hands Clapping

media toby youngMeet Toby Young at mediabistro’s July 12 celebration and reading of The Sound of No Hands Clapping.

mediabistro: You’ve worked in multiple industries, including theater, journalism, books, and filmmaking. What’s the relative bridge-burning quotient in each? Which industry (or individuals within it) forgives quicker, which forgets, and which will never stop punishing you for prior offenses?

Toby Young: The general rule is that success absolves you of any sin. In my first
book, for instance, I was pretty heretical about Condé Nast, but I
got away with it because the book did quite well. Once it got onto
The New York Times‘ bestseller list, Si Newhouse had to call off his
assassins. If it had done badly, by contrast, I think I would have
disappeared without a trace. (This may be a total fantasy on my part.
It could be that Si is completely unaware of the book to this day.)

There is an exception to this rule: actors. Woe betide the writer who
dares to criticize an actor—and the better known the writer, the
more heinous the foul. For the past five years, I’ve been the drama
critic of the Spectator (Britain’s equivalent of The New Yorker) and
I don’t think a single actor I’ve given a bad notice to has forgiven
me. They have the memory of elephants.

#related {
float:left; width:180px; background:#eeeeee; padding:5px; margin:0px 20px 10px 0px; border-style:solid;border-width:1px;border-color:#ff9900;}

This reminds me of an anecdote related by the Oscar-winning
screenwriter Frederic Raphael. It dates back to the 1970s when he was
writing plays for British television: “An actor came up to me and
asked whether I thought that the hydrogen bomb really represented a
threat to the future of the human race. I answered with a lot of on
the one hand, and then again on the other. I had given him, he said,
a lot to think about. Another actor sidled up to me and said, “May I
say something? When an actor asks whether you think that the human
race is threatened by atomic weapons, the required answer is, ‘I
think you’re giving an absolutely wonderful performance.’”

mediabistro: How do you follow up a success like your previous book? Was it
easier or harder to get started on The Sound of No Hands Clapping?

Young: Undoubtedly much harder. I knew that people would be gunning for me
after the success of the first book and that made me much more self-
critical. I’d write a chapter, read it back, and then screw it up
into a ball and hurl it across the room, saying, “It’s going to have
to be a lot better than that.”

In the end, after several deadlines had sailed past, I just decided
to get on with it. I realized there was no point in worrying what the
critics would say because they’ll all say the same thing: “I loved
the first one, but this one sucks.” And, of course, some of the
critics saying this will be the same ones who said that my first book
sucked five years ago.

mediabistro: Who/what friends or bigwigs have you alienated since your latest
book? How about those you pissed off around the time of the first
one—have any come back around?

Young: The Sound of No Hands Clapping was published in America on July 4 and
doesn’t come out in Britain until September 7, so it’s too early to
say. I’m hoping not to receive any threatening letters from high-
powered attorneys, which I did first time round. Having said that, I
did receive a call from Stephen Woolley, the guy who’s producing the
movie version of my first book and who appears as a character in the
latest one. He said he wasn’t particularly delighted with the way
I’ve portrayed him—and then added, as if the two things were
entirely unconnected, that he’s arranged to review it for The Times
of London.

mediabistro: What do you think about the “fake writer” controversies of late, for
example, James Frey and Kaavya Viswanathan?

Young: Well, those are two different controversies. In the case of James
Frey, he could have avoided all the trouble by including a simple
disclaimer at the beginning of A Thousand Little Pieces admitting
that he’d altered a few of the facts. It’s only because he tried to
pass off everything in his book as 100 percent true that he got busted.

I’ve
always made it very clear that only 95 percent of my books are true. It
probably helps that my memoirs are supposed to be funny. I think
readers grant authors a certain latitude if they make them laugh.
David Sedaris is a case in point. No one reading a book by him thinks
that every story he tells happened exactly the way he describes it.
They know he’s given things a little twist in order to make them
funny, in the same way you would if you were telling a story to a
group of friends in a bar.

Kaavya Viswanathan has been accused of plagiarism, which is a very
different charge. The thing that amazes me about cases like hers is
why the authors don’t bother to put what they’ve lifted from other
sources in their own words. I mean, even when I copied out large
chunks from text books in my school essays I knew enough to do that.
I do feel sorry for Kaavya Viswanathan, though. It’s terrible for a
writer’s career to be ended at such a young age. I hope she has
another go at writing a book, only this time all in her own words.

mediabistro: Where do your memoirs land on the authenticity spectrum? Is there
more pressure now to quantify how much you massaged actual events to
make them entertaining to readers? Did this come up between you and
your agent, editor or anyone else at Da Capo?

Young: I made it very clear to my editor at Da Capo, both in the case of How to Lose Friends and The Sound of No Hands Clapping, that I’ve given
some of the stories in both books a bit of top spin. He responded by
saying he wouldn’t have expected anything less and that, in fact,
he’d be very disappointed if I hadn’t made some things up. I’ve kept
a copy of that email because I have this terrible vision of some
diligent journalist going through both books with a fine-toothed comb
and teasing out all the fabrications. If that ever happens, at least
I’ll be able to prove that I never tried to hoodwink my editor.

mediabistro: What do you think of Oprah? Is she good for publishing?

Young: Yes, undoubtedly. I’m a huge fan—and I’m not just saying that
because I’d like to be on her show. What’s not to like about the fact
that she promotes books? The only people who object to it are snobs
who don’t like the idea of their own treasured little habits being
taken up by the hoi polloi. Literary culture is in decline and
anything that slows that process down is to be applauded.

mediabistro: What are you working on right now? What will your next book be
about? If you don’t know, what are you leaning towards?

Young: I’ve just co-authored a sex farce about the Royal Family that’s
debuting in an off-West End theatre on July 20. It’s the second play
I’ve written with Lloyd Evans, a fellow journalist whom I also share
the theatre beat with at the Spectator, and I hope we’ll write
several more. Plays don’t make any money—at least, ours don’t—but
it’s tremendously good fun writing them and putting them on. One of
the best things about playwriting is that the author is king. The
director literally can’t change a word without the writer’s consent.
That’s very different from the movie business, obviously, and that’s
one of the reasons successful screenwriters are so well paid—it’s a
way of compensating them for being so incredibly disrespected. As one
screenwriter said about working for the Hollywood studios: “They ruin
your stories. They trample on your pride. They massacre your ideas.
And what do you get for it? A fortune.”

mediabistro: What is the state of book publishing—best and worst thing about the
industry right now?

Young: It’s a winner-take-all economy. If you’re in the winner’s enclosure,
that’s great, obviously, but if you’re not, it’s terrible. The number
of authors who actually make a living from book-writing in the United
States—and I’m talking about proper books, rather than text books—
is less than 200. As a career choice, writing books is about as
rational as playing the New York Lottery. Still, there are
compensations. You get to describe yourself as a “published author”
at parties and prestigious Web sites solicit your opinions about stuff.

 

“I write down
every juicy piece of gossip I hear, particularly about celebrities. I
can’t publish any of it now because of the libel laws—it’s all
rumor and hearsay, obviously—but if I wait for the subjects to
shuffle off their mortal coils, I’ll be fine.”

 

mediabistro: How long can you make a living going places, then being cast out?
At a
certain point, will you have to live in a cave?

Young: I think I have one more memoir in me, then I’m going to wait 25
years, and start publishing my diaries. Otherwise, as you say, I’d
have to live in a cave. The great thing about the diary form is that
you really can burn all your bridges there because you’re so close to
death by the time they’re published that you’ve got nothing to lose.

I started keeping a diary four years ago and I think I’ve already
accumulated enough material for at least one volume. I write down
every juicy piece of gossip I hear, particularly about celebrities. I
can’t publish any of it now because of the libel laws—it’s all
rumor and hearsay, obviously—but if I wait for the subjects to
shuffle off their mortal coils, I’ll be fine. You can’t libel the
dead. Or, rather, you can, but they can’t sue you for it. As Mae West
said, “Keep a diary and some day it’ll keep you.”

mediabistro: The current obsession with celebrities was just picking up steam
when
you came to New York as a journalist in the mid-90’s- does the fact that
popular culture is fixated on celebs these days make your life/job any
easier, considering your area of expertise (pissing off big names, then
documenting it)?

Young: I’m interested in celebrities as a collective group but I can’t
muster much interest in individual celebrities any more. They all
tend to blend into one another. Like most other journalists, I’m
waiting with bated breath for the public to turn on the celebrity
class, but every time you think people’s interest in them must have
peaked, it then increases exponentially. Indeed, I think it might even
be possible to come up with a similar rule to the one about
microprocessor speed: the number of column inches about celebrities
in the national press doubles every 18 months. One of my long-term
projects is a novel called Starmaggedon about a dystopian future in
which celebrities have become the underclass. Realistically, though,
I don’t think that’s going to happen for a very long time.

mediabistro: With the focus on family life in your latest book, and the
associated revelations, some might accuse you of going soft. Share
a recent story/anecdote to the contrary.

Young: One story that isn’t in the book is that a day after my first child
was born I waited for my wife and baby to fall asleep and then crept
out of the house and went to a party. Unfortunately, for the rest of
the evening I kept bumping into my wife’s friends, all of whom asked
what on earth I was doing out drinking given that Caroline had had a
baby 24 hours earlier. I managed to sneak back into the house without
waking up my wife, but the following day all her friends called her
to tell her they’d seen me out the night before. My marriage still
hasn’t recovered from that.

**

Rebecca L. Fox is mediabistro’s features editor.

So What Do You Do, Isaac Mizrahi, The Fashion Show Host/Liz Claiborne Creative Director?

Isaac Mizrahi is a man of many talents: he’s headlined his own one-man off-Broadway show, makes a mean roast chicken, wrote a series of comic books (Sandee the Supermodel), designed costumes for Broadway (The Women, for which he won a Drama Desk Award) and the New York Metropolitan Opera (Orfeo ed Euridice) and just happens to design two of the most talked-about women’s collections of the year. The man who helped make Target the capital of high-low chic, is currently having a moment. His eponymous line shown during New York’s Fashion Week garnered rave reviews, his first collection for Liz Claiborne has just hit stores, and everyone from Michelle Obama to savvy and newly price-conscious socialites are stepping out in his sunny, cinema-inspired looks.

Mizrahi’s personal story is just as compelling as one of those “fabulous” black and white films starring Joan Crawford or Carole Lombard that he can (and will) recite line by line. Born in Brooklyn, he spent much of his childhood staging puppet shows in his backyard and designing clothes for his mother’s friends. He went on to study at The High School of Performing Arts and Parsons School of Design before launching his own business in 1987. Mizrahi became a pop cultural phenomenon — and a household name — when he made the 1995 documentary Unzipped, which offered a hilarious and unvarnished look at his life behind the seams in fashion. While his own star continued to rise, his company faltered, and in 1998 backer Chanel shuttered his business.

But Mizrahi came back in a big way in 2003 with his trailblazing line for Target and the launch of a number of licensed brands. Now newly installed as the creative director for Liz Claiborne, Mizrahi is determined to revive the brand that was a staple of the working woman’s wardrobe in the 1980s with his signature mix of bold brights, whimsical accessories, sunny prints and public relations savvy. He’s off to a good start: Just last month, it was announced that Seventh Avenue’s renaissance man would be helming a new reality show on Bravo called — what else? — The Fashion Show. As host and “head judge,” Mizrahi’s presiding over a team of aspiring fashionistas looking for their big break. The show is scheduled to premiere May 7.


Name: Isaac Mizrahi

Position: Creative director, Liz Claiborne, and host of The Fashion Show on Bravo

Resume: Designer, television personality and first-time author (How to Have Style, Gotham Books 2008). Joined Liz Claiborne as creative director last year after a successful six-year run with Target. Winner of four CFDA awards, including a special award in 1996 for Unzipped. Hosted two television series — for Oxygen and the Style Network.

Birthdate: October 14, 1961

Hometown: Brooklyn, New York

Education: Parson’s School of Design

First section of the Sunday Times: “The obituaries. It feeds the morbid side of me that wants to know about people who just died. It also feeds my obsession with my own death. But the first thing I read every morning is the horoscope in the New York Post.”

Favorite TV show: “I love Ugly Betty, The Ghost Whisper and Ace of Cakes on the Food Network and Top Chef.”

Guilty pleasure: “Eating. My addiction is food. I love to cook.”

Last book read: I read a lot of different things at one time. I just read Doris Kearns Goodwin’s No Ordinary Time and Secret Ingredients, which is a compilation of all the great food writers of The New Yorker. It’s really, really good. There’s this thing in there on casseroles that I loved.”

You’re one very busy man who just got busier. How did the new show come about?

I was talking to Andy Cohen [Bravo’s senior vice president of production and programming], who I think is the most charming, fabulous person on Earth, and we were talking about one project and he came back and said, ‘What about this?’ I had even more enthusiasm for this idea than the one we had been talking about. A few weeks later, he came back with an offer and here we are. I can’t refuse him anything. Actually, that’s the best part of this relationship — I do adore the Bravo people so much. They’re so smart — smarter than the average network executive.

They certainly are committed to marketing their shows in a big way.

Yes! They’re really taking over — this [fashion reality show] genre belongs to them.

When did this all happen?

Recently — in December. And to all you deal-makers out there: Unless something happens quickly, it’s not going to happen. Unless it takes 10 years. Things either take two months or 10 years.

What can you tell me about your role on the show?

I’m the host and kind of like the head judge. The first day of work was the day after my collection [premiered], and I was so exhausted. It was a day of blocking and I was like, I am not going to make it through these five weeks. I don’t sleep well usually, but I ended up going home after that first day and slept for like 20 hours or something scary like that, and I found myself in the most divine position. I felt like, ‘Oh my God, this is the most fun, engrossing job in the world because when you take away all your preconceived notions about it and get that this is a bunch of struggling young designers who are really trying to prove themselves, the drama of that, at least to me, is irresistible. After almost every elimination, I feel like sobbing. It’s very, very sad for me.

I don’t know how they are going to edit it. They may edit it where I’m telling [the contestants] all the bitchiest, meanest things, but I do think they need to hear that. They do need to rise above the whole personal thing and play it like a game, but it’s tricky. At the same time you’re encouraging them to make it the end-all, be-all of their lives — like, ‘Unless this is completely attached to your ego, don’t bother.’ This is totally personal and not personal at all. Do you know what I mean?

When Unzipped came out, people stopped me in the street and said, ‘That was such a lesson about tenacity and not listening to anyone and just doing what you want and I was so inspired…’ Artists, lay people — all kinds of people were stopping me on the street. I think this is going to inspire people. The message to me, so far, is you have to completely attach yourself and completely detach yourself at the same time. On top of that, you need to enjoy your life. Do something out of a place of joy and fun, otherwise don’t bother. This is what we keep coming back to on the show.

“[Michelle Obama]’s kind of like the Carrie Bradshaw of the next 10 years.”

You’re hardly someone that sits home doing nothing to begin with. How are you fitting this into your already jam-packed schedule?

(Laughs) Honestly, I don’t know. I have 10 days of work and one day off. So there’s one day of the week which is quite calm — or really every third day I get a half day of shooting, so I take care of a lot of business on those days. I have a day off every 10 days and a lot of it gets done then. And, I work at night because I don’t really sleep that much.

How many hours a night do you need?

Four. I don’t need a lot. Then, occasionally, I’ll sleep for like 20 hours.

It seems as if Bravo’s plan is to have your show fill the void left by Project Runway. What do you think?

I’m sure strategically that’s part of what the network is thinking. Also, it’s thinking, ‘Hello, we created this genre and somewhere along the line, they took it away from us.’ Of course, I don’t know what critics will think, and I don’t know if Project Runway is totally a beloved thing, but I don’t really see it at all as competing with that show. It’s just a fashion competition show. There should be more than one. There are so many food competition shows on every channel — not just the Food Network. I think it’s just a really entertaining form of reality television.

One big advantage working with Bravo is that you’ve got NBC Universal behind you. Are there promotions or cross-overs with the network planned? I noticed you did the Oscar fashion post-mortem on Today.

Probably. I’ve worked for the Today show a lot. I used to do segments for them.

I know you’ve done some red carpet reporting. The infamous Scarlett Johansson boob grab comes to mind…

That was for E!, actually. (Laughs) Can you refer to it as the ‘underwire grab?’ — because I so was not grabbing her boob. It was more like the ‘underwire feel.’

Speaking of the red carpet, I thought the fashion at this year’s Oscars was bad. And those few women who did look fabulous ditched the red carpet and went in the back door. Bad news for fashion all around. I thought it was dreadful.

Honestly, so did I. There was no color and nothing daring. Nobody took any risks. It’s getting worse and worse that way.

“I do feel at this age — I’m 47 now — I can walk into a room and say to a television executive, ‘I think this is a really good idea.’”

I know you’re a huge television fan. What were your favorite shows growing up?

There were so many. I’m really a television person. Because of the insomnia, I never shut it off. It was always like my best friend. At some point, my parents thought that maybe it was the TV that was keeping me up, so they tried to get rid of it. I threw such a fit, they couldn’t do that. Honestly, it ended with this really bad scene with my mother throwing the TV set on the floor. (Laughs) It was not pretty at all, but I ended up getting my way.

I loved reruns of I Love Lucy. It’s such a typical, trite answer, but I love watching it. It’s not on TV Land anymore — I think it’s on the Hallmark Channel. I happened to see it the other day — it doesn’t matter how many times I’ve seen an episode, I was screaming. It’s the funniest damn thing on television.

I grew up watching talk shows — I loved Merv Griffin, I loved Mike Douglas, I loved Johnny Carson. I was an addict for those. It seemed like people actually talked. When I did my talk shows on Oxygen and Style [Network], I tried to actually talk — I really didn’t just want to promote movies. I wanted to talk about people’s thoughts, and I didn’t want it to be so pre-produced. If I go back to talk television, I’ll do something like that. Just come on because you feel like talking about something.

You’ve always seemed to gravitate toward television in a big way. You’ve been on Oprah and every talk show imaginable, you’ve had your own shows and appeared on Sex & The City and Ugly Betty. You’ve even been on Jeopardy. Why are you so drawn to the medium?

It is true that I gravitate towards it. It’s part of who I am because I’m a ham. I like talking. I like to express myself in many, many ways. I like a lot of things. I don’t just like designing clothes. I’m very inspired by all different forms of expression. I read a ton. It’s not enough just to design clothes. I don’t know what I’ll ever be remember as — if I’ll be remembered. I don’t know what I’ll be remembered for — Unzipped or my clothes or my cabaret act. I have to say a major part of the joy of my life is not knowing that and not looking over my shoulder and wondering why I’m not doing more of one thing and less of another thing.

If people think of it as me reinventing myself, I’m glad. If that’s a good lesson for people, it’s good, but more than anything it’s about me not feeling bored. It’s me being engaged in the moment. I don’t mean to be arrogant about stuff. I used to sew a lot as a kid. When I look at a sample and the pattern maker says, ‘I can’t do any better’ I say, ‘Well, you’re fired because I can do better.’ When I go to a restaurant, I think, ‘This is a roasted chicken? You’ve got to be kidding me!’ There are some things you become really good at, but that doesn’t mean you have to spend the rest of your life roasting chickens. You know what I mean? I do feel at this age — I’m 47 now — I can walk into a room and say to a television executive, ‘I think this is a really good idea.’

“Of all the things I do,

is probably my favorite because it’s more personal. It’s what I do instead of a talk show now.”

Unzipped is arguably the high-water mark for depicting what really goes on in fashion in a very accurate and entertaining way. Fashion is such fodder for movies and television — how do you think the industries have affected each other? Is there any downside to it at all?

I don’t think there’s a downside. I think it’s a paradigm that is continually shifting. The more we portray fashion as something that’s over the top, the more we’re going to sell over the top clothes. There’s the Shakespearean other to side to that coin too, which is the more over the top things there are in the world, more of the opposite of that exists as well. I think the more you shine the light on fashion in the form of entertainment, the better it is for our industry. Unzipped was probably my most important life’s work, unfortunately. No matter what I do as a designer, it will never be as potent as what I did with Unzipped because it made fashion work in that format.

You’re also opening yourself up in much of the same way on your Web site and seem really into that. How much time do you spend on that?

Every single day there’s a new reason to log on. Either it’s a three-minute segment or a new video blog or some bit that’s new. We spend three long, full days a month taping. Then I tape my video blog two or three times a week. We also take pictures with my video blog camera, and I put stuff up almost every single day. Of all the things I do, it’s probably my favorite because it’s more personal. It’s really like a scrap book. It’s what I do instead of a talk show now.

Now with the added commitment of the show, will you be scaling back your involvement with that?

No. We have shoot dates planned for April. With daily blogging, I’m trying to do what I can in my dressing room. It’s fun. It’s too delicious to give up. (Laughs)

There’s probably no bigger fashion star right now than Michelle Obama. What do you think she’s going to do for American fashion?

I think she’s going to be an unbelievable ambassador for fashion. I love her — especially because she loves clothes. She has such a young take on the whole thing. Young, yet proprietary. She’s kind of like the Carrie Bradshaw of the next 10 years.

You were one of the first proponents of ‘high-low’ style. These days everyone is having to consider what that means. How do you think that phenomenon is going to affect the fashion industry long-term?

Even more than the economy, I think the Obama family is going to affect it. [Michelle Obama] is the perfect example of high-low because she values the J.Crew sweater as much as she does some ensemble by Isabel Toledo. I just think that speaks volumes about the direction everyone has been going in for a number of years.

The acceptance of design at different levels is remarkable now. To me, the greatest luxury is the right thought or the right idea. That could cost very little — the right thinking at the right time. So more and more, as people get conscious of budget, I don’t think ‘fast fashion’ will be as trendy. I think actual design will be valued.

[Michelle Obama’s] choices, for the most part, haven’t been at all mainstream.

That’s true. It’s for the love of something. It’s not because she sat with a million stylists and they said, ‘You should do this or that.’ It’s like someone actually had some passionate feeling for something. And, it’s very politically correct that she wore Isabel Toledo [for the inauguration].

Do you think it’s harder to break into the fashion business now than it was 10 year ago?

(Pauses) No. My answer is no, I don’t. It was so hard breaking into the fashion industry 20 years ago. If you ask Calvin Klein how hard it was breaking into the fashion industry 40 years ago or Ralph Lauren how hard it was 50 years ago … it’s always really hard. It doesn’t get any easier. Every generation thinks, ‘Oh my God, it’s never been so terrible,’ but it has.

Speaking of hard times, your costar Fern Mallis told me not too long ago that she thought the coverage in WWD and other publications has focused too heavily on gloom and doom of the economy — there wasn’t enough cheerleading for the fashion industry and all the negativity almost becomes a self-fulfilling prophecy. What do you think?

I don’t know that people are that gullible anymore. I think WWD is right on. I love the idea of telling it like it is. When I was a kid growing up, it was much less about that. It was kind of like propaganda — ‘Oh, no, everything is great!’ and then you’re out of business. I was once having lunch with Joan Collins and she was in a revival of some Noel Coward play. I said to her, ‘How are tickets selling?’ and she said, ‘Lousy!’ I thought, ‘Wow, imagine, you’re in this play, and you are so fabulous and you can say, ‘I’m sorry the ticket sales suck.’ I wish I was in an industry like that, where you could just say, ‘Business isn’t good right now.’ So I’m a champion of telling it like it is.

Your collections and certainly your attitude toward the business in general have always been very optimistic. How significant a part has that played in your career and your desire to keep trying new things?

I’ve trained myself to think a certain way. For me, there’s nothing in life but bravery. There’s nothing in life but looking at the thing you’re most afraid of and doing it. That, to me, is all. You can see it in my clothes. The clothes for Liz [Claiborne] are so optimistic. If you go and just wear black for the rest of your life now because there’s a recession, the circumstances have won. They’ve won out. You have lost the big hard battle. It just like what President Obama was saying: Now is not the time to lose the battle, now is the time to see all the gray areas and try to work within those areas. I want you to think about a pink print. You take one step at a time, one belt at a time, one shoe at a time, and you’ll get there.

Despite having had some bumps in the road, you’ve continued to do try new things and reinvent yourself in some interesting news ways. What’s the secret to your longevity?

I don’t see this as reinvention, I see it as living my life every single day and not being bored to death. I don’t reinvent anything, I just do what I think is right and seems amusing. I only do things I’m excited about.

What the best piece of advice you could offer to someone looking to get into the business?

(Pauses) Don’t listen to anybody. Do exactly what you think is right, and you’ll find your moment and your audience.

What would you consider your greatest success at this juncture?

Probably the Target thing. Having made that ‘masstige’ [prestige for the masses] thing happen.

What about your biggest disappointment?

Wow. (Pauses) My partnership with Chanel.

How would you say you’ve gotten to where you are?

The way I’ve gotten to where I am was not thinking about getting anywhere. I really mean this — I don’t think about where things are going. I think about where I am and how much I am engaged in what I’m doing. That’s one of the early lessons I learned after 10 years in business: If you feel put upon or if you feel like you have to do something you’re never going to be good at, you’re never going to do it well. The lesson I learned is unless everybody is doing exactly as they please, it’s not going to work. I’ve learned that in hiring and working with people that unless they’re doing exactly as they please and what they feel they are good at and feel challenged in doing, then you’re not going to get good work out of them. Get someone who really needs the thing you want them to do.

Do you have a motto?

I don’t have a motto, but I have this thing that I made up about style: Style is knowing when not to have any.


Diane Clehane is a contributing editor to FishbowlNY and TVNewser. She writes the ‘Lunch‘ column.

[This interview has been edited for length and clarity.]

So What Do You Do, Heather Hartle, Co-Founder/Creative Director, 7×7?

In 2001, Heather Hartle and her then-husband, Tom, relocated to San Francisco from Detroit and founded Hartle Media LLC. The pair launched 7×7, a city magazine named for the size of the Bay Area metropolis that was aimed at its “edgy” and “hipper” citizens. The pair has since divorced but continue to work side by side — almost literally — in the company’s downtown loft. Hartle serves as editorial and creative director of 7×7 and California Home Design and assists with Spin, which Hartle Media’s investment partner, McEvoy Group, purchased in 2006. In October, she spoke with mediabistro.com about launching the week before Sept. 11, transitioning the magazine to the Web, and why SF needed another city mag.


Name: Heather Hartle
Position: Co-founder, Hartle Media; editorial and creative director, 7×7 and California Home Design
Resume: Founded HOUR Media LLC in Detroit before relocating to San Francisco with her then-husband Tom.
Marital status: Divorced


You launched 7×7 the week before Sept. 11, 2001. Did you think you were going to be okay or was it ‘Oh, shit this couldn’t be a worse time’?
It was a little bit of both. It was, “Oh, shit, we couldn’t have done this at a worse time,” but with that said, the people who really wanted to stay and work — both in this city and in this industry — stayed, and we were able to get really talented people that we might not have been able to afford prior.

The city and the whole country was looking for something inspirational and aspirational, and our type of book is all about celebrating the city. Besides 9/11, there was the dot-com bust, so there was this slow melt and downturn in San Francisco, and then with September 11, the whole nation, so it worked for the best.

Now we’re in the next advertising slowdown. Are you starting to see this in print and on the Web?
We’re starting to feel it most definitely. Areas like luxury and fashion are still strong, very strong. Things like real estate — the big condo buildings and commercial real estate — are down a little bit, but we’re anticipating everyone going back a little bit more. We’re concentrating more online and the bigger programs that are attractive to advertisers there.

San Francisco already had San Francisco Magazine, which is quite similar to 7×7. They are both upscale city mags. What made you think you could compete and succeed?
San Francisco Magazine has a Bay Area-wide focus. It’s the peninsula, North Bay, and East Bay. 7×7 is named for the size of the city, seven by seven square miles. It’s San Francisco, so we felt that there was a need for a voice that spoke right to people who lived in the city — a little bit edgy, a little bit hipper, not trying to be everything to everybody. It’s really delivered to an audience that is aspirational and going out and doing the things that make the city so fabulous. And it worked. People came.

We’re very community involved. That has been one of our successes. We’ve always been grassroots. We’ve supported a lot of community groups and efforts. We really feel like we’re part of the city.

“People traditionally think of the print magazine first and [say], ‘Oh, let’s do some Web exclusives,’ but what I’m challenging my team to do is go to the Web first and do some print exclusives.”

What kind of community groups?
We were just big sponsors of the Academy of Sciences opening, which was a big deal across the country and across the world. [We also support] animal rescue shelters. We’ve got hundreds of charities that we are involved with.

You mentioned you’re focusing more on the Web. How are you divvying up tasks? Do you have dedicated Web staff?
We are relaunching our current Web site at the end of November. We have one main editor on the Web and everybody who writes for the magazine is starting to write for the Web as well, and then I have a pool of freelancers and bloggers who we cull the best of the best from the area and highlight their existing blogs. With the redesign of the Web site, we are also redesigning the magazine. People traditionally think of the print magazine first and [say], “Oh, let’s do some Web exclusives,” but what I’m challenging my team to do is go to the Web first and do some print exclusives. It’s going to be a different model for our editors because they aren’t used to thinking like that.

How does it work with the independent bloggers? Do they keep their “brands” under your platform?
Yes.

And do you pay them?
It’s exposure. They are looking for exposure and traffic. For those that fit within the print vehicle, they also get a column in the magazine, so they are getting some print coverage, which is really what they are after. That model has been working well, but the more I get, I don’t have that much print room.

Do you think luxury publications work as well on the Web? The first thing I notice about the print version of 7×7 is that it’s beautifully laid out and designed, and I’m not sure that comes across on a Web site.
I don’t disagree with you. I think our particular brand is so well known now for its access to the city — we bring access that no one else can get, whether it’s something as simple as party pictures, but also the restaurant news or shops opening or closing. [That’s] the service end, and that’s what we’re going to be pushing on the Web, all access, all the time. Of course, we’ll still make it beautiful and have photo galleries, but I agree with you that it’s not quite the same.

San Francisco is a tech-savvy town. Is it important to have a Web site that’s up-to-date with the latest technology? Do you get pressure from your readers and users to update with the newest features?
I haven’t really directly felt that or seen it. I think we put that pressure on ourselves. It’s funny, the first version of the Web site was over two years ago and it was very traditional thinking: “Let’s just get the print magazine online.” It wasn’t thinking that we were going to have exclusive and daily content just online. The redesign is meant so that we can really be more flexible.

Can you talk a little bit about the acquisition of Spin? What opportunities did you see in 2006? It seems like an interesting time to go into music magazines.
Yeah, I can talk about it. Just so you know, the way that the business is structured, 7×7 and California Home Design are straight out owned by Hartle Media with our investment partner. Spin is actually a little different. It’s under the McEvoy Group, which is our investment partner, so Hartle doesn’t straight up own it, but my business partner [Tom] is the president of Spin so it definitely comes through the office.

We saw the opportunity that if there’s any kind of magazine that should be online, it’s a music magazine. People aren’t waiting for music reviews once a month on the newsstand anymore. It’s instantaneous. It’s the young, active, easily branded to market that we were after and it’s been fun. It’s definitely going in the right direction.

How do you and Tom work together?
He runs more of the business side, while I run the editorial and creative side of it. He’s very much involved with Spin on a day-to-day basis and I’m 7×7 and California Home Design on a day-to-day. We cross when we need each other’s help on both.

You’re the creative director and the editorial director of both magazines. What are the advantages and disadvantages of this?
Well, the advantages are that I get to envision the final package together, how the edit and the creative — from the marketing to individual layouts — come together. I never really thought about it to be honest. I just do it. I kind of always have.

It’s fun because I get to work with, obviously because I’m an owner, the sales side extensively in coming up with the editorial calendar and what will be a good sales tool and how to execute that creatively.

How much of the design are you actually doing? Are you on the top level and then you farm it out the editors or are you coming up with the packages?
It goes both ways. Right now because of online I’m heavily involved in every part of that. On the print side, unless we are reinventing something, I just let everybody grab that theme that month and they end up pitching to me and I can say yes or no. I get very involved on the creative side from photographers to actual layout.


Noah Davis is a freelance writer living in Brooklyn, New York.

[This article has been edited for length and clarity.]

So What Do You Do, Joe Zee, Creative Director, Elle?

Joe Zee is having a moment. Having worked his way up from Seventh Avenue schlepper to front-row fixture over the course of his 20-year career, Zee’s star has never burned brighter. Last year, he was tapped as Elle‘s creative director to revitalize the look of its pages and bring back “the glory of what used to be.” Almost immediately, the rumor mill started churning over what his arrival meant for the rest of the staff. The haute gossip, which could have doubled as a storyline on Ugly Betty, culminated in fashion director-turned Project Runway “star” Nina Garcia’s highly publicized departure earlier this year, yet Zee remained above the fray. Now Zee — who by many accounts is one of the most collegial fashionistas around — will moonlight on a new reality show, Stylista (premiering October 29 on the CW), which pits a crew of competing hopefuls against one other for a job at Elle—however, Zee’s one fashion maven who has no designs on a television career. “I understand the place of reality TV, so I would never pretend to be a television personality,” he says. “It’s much more interesting — if it works — to have it supplement what I already do.”

For Canadian-born Zee, who memorized fashion magazine mastheads between classes in high school, becoming one of fashion’s most respected and influential style mavens is a dream come true. While the self-described “pop culture junkie” has a fast-talking, fun-loving personality that seems tailor-made for the small screen, he says his head won’t be turned by stardom. “My first priority will always be the magazine.” Zee spoke with us about his purportedly glamorous (“but it really isn’t”) career.


Name: Joe Zee

Position: Creative director, Elle
Resume: Joined Elle in January 2007; editor-in-chief of Fairchild’s short-lived Vitals (2003-2005); fashion director at W; contributing fashion editor at Details and House & Garden; got his start at Allure. Has styled advertising campaigns for DKNY, Banana Republic, Estee Lauder, and the recent “(PRODUCT) RED” campaign for Gap, as well as the company’s Madonna-Missy Elliot ads in 2003.

Birthdate: November 23, 1968

Hometown: Toronto, Canada

Education: University of Toronto, Fashion Institute of Technology

Marital status: Single

First section of the Sunday Times: The Magazine

Favorite television show: Top Chef and American Idol

Guilty pleasure: Television

Last book read: The Emperor’s Children by Claire Messud. “It’s about a bunch of kids growing up in New York City. It’s a cross-section of culture and life.”


Did you always know you wanted to be in fashion?

I always knew I wanted to work in magazines. When I was in high school, I would sit between my free periods and read fashion magazines cover to cover. People use that term loosely, but I would literally devour every page — even the ads. I was really attracted to the branding, the designers. I would read mastheads to see who left, who moved up. As a kid in Toronto, none of these people had any resonance for me, but I started to learn doing that. I was attracted to all the fashion photography. This sounds so corny now, but I would look at a fashion story in Vogue and test myself and say, “Is this Louis Dell’Olio for Anne Klein? Is that Claude Montana?” Then I’d look at the credits and go, “Yes! That is it!” I think when I was younger, I translated that as loving fashion — and I do — but it was only when I got older, I started to see that I actually loved magazines. Now that I’m even older, I realize I love media. I’m a huge pop culture junkie, so I watch tons of television. I see every movie. I know every Billboard Top 10 song. I read bestsellers. I’m there.

“I looked at things from a different angles. I loved Charlie’s Angels, but where the average kid would say, ‘They’re so beautiful and glamorous,’ I also remember thinking, ‘Boy, that Aaron Spelling has really got it together.’”

Fern Mallis told me she was voted “best dressed” in high school. Did you have any early indication that you’d be dressing some of the most famous women in the world?

When I was 16, Club Monaco had just opened in Toronto. There was only one store; it was downtown. It was a cool, hip place patterned after Charivari on 57th Street, and Fiorucci. It was the cool hybrid of those two stores. I walked in and I said, “I want to work here.” They hired me — I worked part-time. I’d literally finish school and run downtown and hang out with all the fashion guys that worked there. I was 16 and they were like 25. I was really attracted to that cutting-edge fashion scene.

You mentioned you grew up obsessed with television. Was there someone on the pop culture landscape at the time that had a huge influence on you?

I looked at things from a different angles. I loved Charlie’s Angels, but where the average kid would say, “They’re so beautiful and glamorous,” I also remember thinking, “Boy, that Aaron Spelling has really got it together.” I don’t think I was trying to be that way — I was just an old soul. I watched Dynasty and The Colbys — which I loved, but I thought, “Boy, they are really nailing the TV market.”

You have this fabulous-sounding job now, but entry-level jobs in fashion are notoriously tough. What was your least glamorous gig starting out?

People do think my life is so glamorous, but even now, there are so many moments now where it really isn’t. I interned at this small trade magazine, Sportswear International. They had no budget at all. I had to return the clothes [to the design houses]. They had an office in the Garment District, and I literally had to return all the garment bags pushing a Gristede’s shopping cart like a homeless person up and down Broadway. I look back now and I think, “I can’t believe I did that.” At the time I was like, “I can’t believe I get to go to these showrooms!” I was so excited by the experience. Now, with the interns or even assistants, it’s like, “No one is doing that!”

“I think a lot of fashion people don’t like celebrity culture. I love an actress, a musician, an athlete because they have a personality and a dimension they bring to something that I can’t get from an 18-year-old model.”

Of course not, they want to run the magazine…

That whole entitlement thing is baffling. When I was doing the shopping cart thing, I was so happy to meet that person at the showroom — and the person was the receptionist. Nowadays, if [interns] don’t go on a photo shoot they are really upset. I think you’ve got to earn that. I was at W, and I had an intern. On her first day — she hadn’t done anything yet — she walked up to me and said, “I just want to ask — if you have a photo shoot with Gwyneth Paltrow, I’d like to come.” Half of me was like, “I kind of like that tenacity,” and the other half of me was like, “Why don’t you do what we need to do here first? I love that you’re putting in your order for which actress you’d like to meet. I can’t believe you’re doing this on day one!”

You worked with Tom Ford when he guest-edited Vanity Fair‘s Hollywood issue in 2006 and styled several of Gap’s ad campaigns. Did you find it difficult to work with a lot of celebrities on those big jobs?

I was embracing celebrity culture early on — and still — because I actually respect and appreciate it. I think a lot of fashion people don’t like celebrity culture. I think [for] a lot of them, it’s been an infringement on their world a little. I love an actress, a musician, an athlete because they have a personality and a dimension they bring to something that I can’t get from an 18-year-old model. Celebrities bring something else to fashion, to pictures.

Many fashion designers have told me over the years that they feel somewhat forced to be part of the celebrity game, especially when it comes to dressing stars for award shows. How would you characterize the overall feeling of fashion towards celebrities today?

There is a segment of fashion that really embraces it, and there’s a segment that really feels they have to embrace it and there’s a segment that says, ‘You know what? I can do without them.’ I respect all of them because if we were all homogenous, it wouldn’t really work. Are we all chasing celebs? I think we all are a little bit. Is it over- saturated? It is sometimes, but I don’t see it letting up any time soon.
Like it or not, it’s part of the culture we live in. [Celebrities] account for a big part of [the fashion] business. Something worn by “X” celebrity can translate into huge sales. Award shows have become red carpets. The Oscar pre-show is more interesting than the awards. People care more about what someone looks like than they do about who won Best Actress. I don’t know if someone could remember that [this year] Tilda Swinton won Best Supporting Actress, but they can certainly tell you about the dress she was wearing. That part is fascinating.

So the trend of celebrities supplanting models on magazine covers will continue for the foreseeable future?

Everything is cyclical but for now, they’re not going anywhere. People ask “When will the models be back?” I think if it’s the right model, they will be back.

Has the celebrity quotient in Elle increased since you’ve come on board?

Maybe a little bit. We definitely still have our models, whom I love, but there are some celebrities who are Elle girls. That’s one of things I talked about doing when I came on board — redefining that colloquialism: “She’s so Elle” or “She’s an Elle girl;” having that definitive quality back.

Who is the “Elle girl?”

She’s young, she’s a rule-breaker, she’s slightly rebellious. For me, she’s all sorts of different people. She could be Chloe Sevigny or Chan Marshall. It could also be Kate Lanphear who is in our fashion department. She’s my style director. They don’t feel they need to interpret the runway head to toe. When I got here Robbie [Myers] was so particular about saying Elle is about celebrating personal style. I love that.

I loved the look of Vitals. You’ve been reunited with your design director Paul Ritter at Elle. What major changes have you instituted in the look of the magazine?

We did the major redesign last September. We’re constantly evolving for no other reason than we’re always bored with ourselves and we always want to be better than last time. We want to be more unpredictable and exciting. Robbie, Paul and I always want things to be moving forward. We’ve done the huge drastic change — now, it’s the constant evolution of what that is.

At Elle, how do the responsibilities of a creative director differ from a fashion director? You are senior to the fashion directors, right?

Yes, they report to me. I’m responsible for all the visuals in the magazine, cover to cover. I have a lot of input into which celebrity we put on the cover. The big thing I did when I got here was change the roster of photographers and stylists we use, and really sort of take it to the next level — bring the glory back of what used to be. People keep referencing the old ’80s Elle to me. They loved it. I find a lot of inspiration in that, but I didn’t want to do a magazine that was completely referential or retro. We do those touches now and then, but we really have to do what the next look is.

Speaking of fashion directors, were you surprised at the amount of coverage of Nina Garcia’s departure?

I don’t know if surprised is the word. It was at a time when it was all about Project Runway. It has a really strong following. There was so much business press about the switch from Bravo to Lifetime, it was a topic that was top of mind. Her departure just added a footnote to all the stories and fuel to the fire. I’m not shocked about that aspect. I’m more shocked that I didn’t know we were so interesting.

When did the comings and goings of a staff at a fashion magazine go beyond getting covered in WWD and move to Page Six?

It was in People! That’s what I was shocked by, because people come and go daily. I’ve been doing this 20 years, and it was never like this. I think it was the timing, and that it was an interesting footnote to all those stories about the networks and the future of the show. [Garcia] is part of the show, and it was no different than if Michael Kors was doing something. They would have covered that extensively, as well.

Have you spoken to her since she left?

I haven’t. I think she’s been on holiday. She’s editor-at-large here. She’s starting at Marie Claire in the fall.

So now you’re Elle‘s latest reality star. What was your first reaction when they approached you about doing Stylista?

The mechanics of the show were up and running prior to me coming to Elle. Robbie was like, “Come in and have a meeting with these guys.” When I did, it sounded like an interesting concept, and everything rolled really quickly. When they asked me to do the show, I said, “Sure.” Robbie has been really smart about this. She’s like, “We have to constantly reach out to new people” and that’s what television is about — allowing you to reach a whole new group of people. I’m happy to help out with the magazine in any way that I can. It’s been fascinating for me, as a television junkie, to break down the fourth wall and see how it all works.

“I meet many people who are not in my world, and they think all I’m doing is running to a fashion show, then a movie premiere, and then I’m having dinner with Julia Roberts. That almost never happens.”

Tell me about your role.

My participation in the show is minimal. I’m a judge. I only needed to come every third day. The shoot was four weeks. We usually did it after work, in the evening. It didn’t really affect my work day. It was easier for me because I don’t need to show up early for hair and makeup.

Anything about the experience take you by surprise?

At the beginning, it was a little trial and error. [For] the first two episodes, we were there until 4:30 in the morning — it was all new. By episode[s] three and four, they really nailed it. There were times when we were out by 7:30 or 8:00 p.m. and I got there at 3:30 pm. They were on it. The only shocking part was [how] everything happened so quickly. You’re watching these shows and you think it’s a longer period of time, but everything just really happens fast.

[TV] shows have done a lot to democratize fashion. The average person knows — or at least thinks he or she knows — a great deal about the industry. What’s the most common misconception you’ve dealt with?

People think my life is really glamorous. I meet many people who are not in my world, and they think all I’m doing is running to a fashion show, then a movie premiere, and then I’m having dinner with Julia Roberts. That almost never happens. It’s a very small part of my job.
[These shows] make it look glamorous, but not for one second do I think that’s [how] doctors act when I watch Grey’s Anatomy. I don’t think every cop looks like Mariska Hargitay. You have to understand it’s a certain level of entertainment. As long as people are aware of the industry, that’s great.

What did you learn in the earliest stages of your career that’s still relevant to what you do today?

My eye and my taste level. My first job was working for Polly Mellen, and she really taught me how to see and appreciate fashion. She had the strongest work ethic. For me, that’s very important. The other part is, I’ve worked for Linda Wells, Patrick McCarthy and now I work for Robbie Myers. These are three bosses I want in my life if I had to re-pick them all over again. They understood the value of the person they hired. They never micromanaged and they let you do your thing.
I’ve learned never to micromanage my staff and let them do their best.

What do you consider your greatest accomplishment to date?

I’m proud of a lot of things I’ve accomplished in my career. Definitely working with all these incredible, world-renowned photographers that I admired all growing up (Bruce Weber, Annie Leibovitz) was a highlight, and that also includes doing one of my first-ever styling jobs with Richard Avedon. Definitely conceiving and launching Vitals. And of course, watching Elle evolve now is great to see.

Biggest disappointment?

My biggest disappointment is probably that Vitals didn’t get a chance to really take off. I’m so proud of the staff that worked there, though. We were a small but dedicated group committed to the project and nothing else. They’ve all gone on to have amazing jobs right now. But I think the idea of Vitals just came around at the right time where that idea of unapologetic service married with luxury and design really resonated with some people. Occasionally I see influences of it still in other magazines. But I’m also not nostalgic about the end of Vitals, either. It was a good notch on the timeline.

How would you say you’ve gotten to where you are?

No sleep. Dedication. Passion. Loving what I do every single day. Being serious, but not taking it serious[ly] at all.

Do you have a motto?

I don’t take no for an answer. Polly Mellen taught me that.


Diane Clehane is a contributing editor to FishbowlNY. She writes the ‘Lunch’ column.

Ready Set Rocket and Kenneth Cole Talk Advertising with Google Glass

KCOLE TOP

The very phrase “advertising with Google Glass” may seem like a contradiction, but Kenneth Cole recently became the first brand to do just that with the help of Men’s Health magazine and New York-based digital agency Ready Set Rocket, which collaborated with Cole’s in-house creative team on a Glass-powered project to help launch its new fragrance “Mankind.”

We spoke to Ready Set Rocket co-founder and Chief Strategist Alex Lirstman and Robert Genovese, VP of integrated marketing at Kenneth Cole, to learn more about the campaign. (Genovese has also worked in the agency world as a media planner at Wieden+Kennedy and associate media director at MPG.)

(more…)

New Career Opportunities Daily: The best jobs in media.

5 Takes on Facebook’s New Ad Platform

The Zuck

One of the biggest announcements at this year’s Advertising Week concerned Facebook and the “relaunch” of its advertising platform, Atlas.

Whether we want to admit it or not, Facebook plays a huge role in determining which ads audiences see — and this move is its attempt to knock Google off the online ad throne. The idea is that Facebook can more effectively show the ads you make and place to people who actually want to watch them…but you knew that already.

We asked five contacts in the ad/marketing industries for their takes on this development.

First, two voices from the (digital) agency world.

(more…)

New Career Opportunities Daily: The best jobs in media.

Agency Founder Selina Petosa Talks Gender Imbalance and the Future of Digital

The ad industry rarely finds common ground on much of anything, but two particularly contentious topics do seem to have long shelf lives: gender imbalance and the “digital vs. analog” divide.

We spoke to Selina Petosa, founder and chief creative strategist of Seattle-based digital agency Rational Interaction, to get her take on these subjects.

First, here’s some work Rational created for client Microsoft in 2012 (other major clients include Sony, Amazon, AT&T, Expedia and Cisco).

Q&A below.

(more…)

New Career Opportunities Daily: The best jobs in media.

So What Do You Do, Tiffany R. Warren, Chief Diversity Officer for Omnicom Group?

Tiffany-Warren-wpSome people simply talk and others do. Tiffany R. Warren belongs to the latter category. When she tired of seeing the same groups being honored year after year at advertising awards shows, Warren took it upon herself to create a space to celebrate diversity in the advertising, marketing, PR and entertainment industries. Now in its 10th year, ADCOLOR has grown to include myriad events and programs aimed to not only champion diverse professionals in these industries, but also to truly prepare them to soar in careers with longevity and purpose. The theme of the 2014 ADCOLOR Awards and Industry Conference, taking place Sept. 17-20 in Beverly Hills, Calif.,  is “We Are Here” to further drive home the point that these industries are rife with diverse talent. This year’s awards will honor Judy Smith, founder and president of Smith & Company (aka Scandal‘s Olivia Pope) and Charles King, partner/agent in the Motion Picture Department at William Morris Endeavor Entertainment.

“I always felt compelled to do something that was of service. That’s just a family trait. My family is full of teachers and daycare providers and people that just give back. We have some sort of DNA thing going on,” Warren shares. Her altruistic gene must be strong because in addition to the transformative work she does in her roles with Omnicom and ADCOLOR, she serves on the boards for several organizations such as Ghetto Film School and GLAAD and somehow finds the time to mentor 126 people. You read that right. One hundred and twenty-six people.

Here, learn what it takes to be a true agent of change and find out Warren’s thoughts on the current state of diversity in the advertising industry.

(more…)

New Career Opportunities Daily: The best jobs in media.

R/GA Global CCO Nick Law Thinks Analog and Digital Can Get Along

In case you haven’t seen it yet, IAB’s Peter Minnium recently had a conversation with Nick Law, global CCO at R/GA, about a subject close to all of your hearts: digital vs. analog in the ad world.

In this one-on-one interview, Law elaborates on a point made in an earlier lecture: storytelling and systematic thinking can both be creative. In fact, Law implies that the ad world’s focus on narrative above all other things (combined with the egos of certain “analog” creatives) has placed agencies at a disadvantage.

We’d like to see creative departments’ reactions to Law’s assertion that the new dynamic duo isn’t an art director and a copywriter but, rather, “a storyteller and a systematic thinker” — and that the two mindsets aren’t as far apart as we might think.

New Career Opportunities Daily: The best jobs in media.

Fine Brothers Discuss Rebranding and the Future of Digital Agencies

Fine, previously known as Fine Design Group, is one of the oldest “digital agencies” around. After founding the company in the halcyon dial-up days of 1994, brothers Kenn Fine and Steven Fine created “some of the first marketing websites on the public Internet” with the help of partner Josh Kelly.

While the Fine brothers made their livings in molecular biology and bicycle apparel, Kelly had a different kind of background: advertising. In fact, he played a marketing role at DDB/Publicis early in his career, which explains the future direction of his partners’ digital branding business.

Now the Fine brothers have progressed, through two decades of digital work, to become a shop specializing in the sorts of things that dominate conversations in the ad industry: “websites, mobile sites, digital video, applications, social media, and search engines.” In their own words, they’re “an agency for the digital age.

The redesign specialists recently gave their own home page a makeover and changed their name — and they collectively answered our questions about their own rebranding and the future of the agency model in the digital world.

(more…)

New Career Opportunities Daily: The best jobs in media.

Marcy Bloom on How Digital Media Has Changed Magazine Advertising

Marcy Bloom has spent 17 years working as a publisher on national magazines, from GQ to Lucky. Now, she’s taking on an even bigger role as senior vice president and group publisher at Modern Luxury.

With more than 40 titles across 15 major markets, the company has an abundance of content to be shared on various media platforms. Here, Bloom explains how digital has changed the magazine advertising landscape:

You know, I believe that one of the key things that digital has done is it’s allowed you to be more targeted. And that is from a national magazine perspective — you can’t get as close as you can in a digital sense. And that’s actually why I’m beyond inspired by what we’re doing here [at Modern Luxury] because we have a closeness and an intimacy. We have editors, sales staff and marketers in each market. Our brands reflect those markets. So we’re getting as close as you can via print, and that feels extremely relevant, especially because of what digital can offer.

For more from Bloom, including how the company is creating a national advertising platform for its many niche, regional publications, read: So What Do You Do, Marcy Bloom, Senior Vice President and Group Publisher of Modern Luxury?

New Career Opportunities Daily: The best jobs in media.

YP CEO David Krantz: ‘We Were Mobile Before Mobile Was Cool!’

This week, Adweek offered readers the gentle musings of YP CEO David Krantz. In case your Web browser doesn’t have that URL in its search history, that would be the former Yellow Pages

For the Millennials out there in AgencySpy land, that is what was once called a phone book.

It was a bundled array of print technology listing the numbers and logos of anyone in your neck of the woods. What was formerly the listing service of AT&T Interactive decided to skew a little younger by breaking out the two-letter moniker.

In the interview, Krantz stuck up for his brand, downplaying the influence 0f all those cool kids at Google and stuff.

(more…)

New Career Opportunities Daily: The best jobs in media.

Agencies Officially Need to Pay Attention to Vine Now

You’ve heard of Vine, right? Of course you have–and we’ll go out on a sturdy limb in suggesting that most of our readers probably don’t think of Twitter’s six-second loop tool as the Next Big Thing in digital marketing.

This week, however, the company unveiled the latest step in its campaign to appeal to those of the agency persuasion: loop counts.

What does that alien phrase mean? Metrics to measure how many times people have clicked on given “vines” have been around for a while, but this one tells us how many times a given clip has looped–and it somehow controls for the “open tab” factor as well. The idea is that viewers will watch the most compelling Vines loop repeatedly, thereby increasing brand retention, etc.

In short, we can now get a better sense of how much Vine campaigns are worth–and, given recent agency trends focusing on more accurate measurement for social media campaigns, some think that this means more shops will have to take Vine seriously.

A few marketing experts weigh in after the jump.

(more…)

New Career Opportunities Daily: The best jobs in media.

Shop Behind Viral Hello Flo Spot on the Agency/Production Company Model

You’ve probably seen the Hello Flo ‘First Moon Party’ spot this week; it’s already gotten 7.2 million views in four days.

You probably also noticed that there was no major agency behind the campaign, which followed an earlier, equally popular campaign released a year ago.

Today we spoke to Todd Wiseman Jr.–co-founder of Hayden 5, the production company behind the viral hit–about the way his shop works and how it’s different from traditional agencies.

(more…)

New Career Opportunities Daily: The best jobs in media.

Li-Anne Dias : In conversation with an artist

Li-Anne Dias is an artist and illustrator. She grew up in Mumbai, and Graduated from Sir J.J School of Art
Classic stories and scenes from urban life are her favourite subjects. She likes experimenting with various media
and aims at achieving a blend of fine art and illustration in her work. View her website here.

Why are you an Illustrator?
My interest has always been in creating images and responding to stories through my work.
Besides, I’ve been drawing for as long as I can remember but it’s not that it comes easy.
I have just begun to find a niche for myself as an illustrator.

Did you attend school for fine art or design?
Yes. I graduated from Sir J.J. School of Fine Art with a Degree in Painting.

You have a distinct style of illustration. How long did it take you to develop your style?
I still don’t believe that I have a definitive style but I definitely feel like I’m on my way to one.
I also think the ability to change your style from one to project to the next is essential.

Were there any particular role models for you when you grew up?
There have been many role models. I look up to Ganesh Pyne for his exemplary use of line and form, and international artists like Joan Miro, Max Ernst and Francis Berry.

Who was the most influential personality on your career in Illustrations?
There are many people who influenced me to take up Illustration as a career.
One of my first art instructors, Mr. Narendra Pavaskar, and my professors at Art College helped me most in discovering my ability to Illustrate.

What made you decide to become a freelance illustrator? When did you start freelancing? Do you illustrate for advertising?
You have the opportunity and the freedom to choose your work.
It is a luxury to be able to select the projects you work on.

Are many advertising agencies getting illustrations made these days? Do you work more with agencies or publishers?
Yes, there is an inclination towards the use of hand-drawn illustrations in advertising these days.
Some of the most inspiring, and award-winning campaigns of today involve the use of illustration in some way or the other.

I’m working on a few personal projects that I wish to publish soon.

Was there any time when you wanted to quit Illustrations?
No. But there have been difficult times when I decide to take a break and explore new media.
I have been experimenting a lot lately with traditional print-making techniques.

Have you considered turning your illustrations into toys?
Of course. I have always been drawn to the idea of executing my art in unconventional media.

Any other Indian Illustrators who you admire?
I find the work of Mario Miranda and Deelip Khomane very inspiring.

Do you have any favorite fellow illustrators or resources relating to your fields?
Tasneem Amiruddin is a friend, and a wonderful illustrator. I think her style of illustration is both highly experimental and unique.

What advice do you have for aspiring creative professionals? Would you advise them to take on Illustration as a career option? Is it paying well enough?
Enjoy what you do, to the extent that it is a pleasure to go beyond the call of duty. Everyone gets rejection along the way, but you have to keep going.
Illustration is a great career prospect as long as you’re extremely passionate about it, but you need to have self-discipline to pull through.

Whats your dream project?
To write and illustrate my own graphic novel.

Mac or PC?
Both. They are only tools.

Who would you like to take out for dinner?
My dad.

What’s on your iPod?
Young the Giant, Porcupine Tree and a few other artists.

 

1

2

3

 

 

 

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

The post Li-Anne Dias : In conversation with an artist appeared first on desicreative.

Ritam Banerjee : In conversation with a photographer

Based out of Mumbai, Ritam has never quite understood the need to create a niche. Shooting extensively across categories—travel, photojournalism, advertising, interiors, portraits, automobiles, fashion, food—he has always sought inspiration and challenge in variety. From training his lens at the blazing dome of the Taj Palace & Tower when Mumbai was under siege in 2008 to documenting the placid course of the middle and lower Ganges, Ritam has framed things as disparate as spas and slums, ketchup and cars.

Over the last decade, Ritam has worked with corporates and publications across continents, and has also been associated with the global agency, Getty Images.
 
Apart from stills, he shoots commercial AVs, and has recently won an International Best Cinematographer Award in London for his first feature film. Ritam has also been in the news for his theme-based calendars and his exhibitions.

Why are you a photographer?
Guess, I couldn’t think or dream of doing anything else. Life is all about what we see and the way we see them. So, perhaps, the innate desire to tell stories the way I see it led me to photography. Whether it’s documenting something or creating a piece of art, capturing a moment or depicting an idea, it’s really about telling a story and telling it well.

Do you remember any decisive moment when you felt ‘I want to be a photographer’?
My father, Robin Banerjee, was a serious hobbyist and still practices photography for the pure love of the medium. Seeing him and his work when I was growing up must have influenced my decision. So when I got the first opportunity to explore photography during my college days in Fergusson, Pune, I took it seriously and started my journey as a photojournalist with the Times of India, Pune edition. I haven’t looked back since.

Were there any particular role models for you when you grew up?
Like I said: my father. His passion for the art was contagious. Thanks to him, I was exposed to the works of legends like Richard Avedon, Herb Ritts, Steve Mccurry, Annie Leibovitz, Ansel Adams, Robert Capa, Patrick Demarchelier, Max Vadukul, Henri Cartier Bresson, Raghu Rai, Raghubir Singh, Gautam Rajadhyaksha, Prabuddha Dasgupta and several others. Even painters, musicians and filmmakers influenced my sensibilities.

Though I grew up in a small town– Jamshedpur — my upbringing made the canvas in front of me that much wider. From Michael Jackson to Tchaikovsky, Monet to Nandalal Bose, Tagore to Shakespeare, Satyajit Ray to Vittorio De Sica, my education in aesthetics and culture has luckily been quite diverse.

Who was the most influential personality in your career in photography?
As I just mentioned, there were several who influenced my ideas and opinions. Hence, naming one personality wouldn’t do justice.

How has photography changed over the course of the last couple of decades? Is execution/art direction more important than it used to be?
With time, everything evolves. So has photography and us as practitioners of the art. Sensibilities have changed and so have the tools and techniques. The ability to instantly view the results and even tweak the images at will in post-production effectively means: one’s only limitation is the periphery of one’s imagination.

And yes, eye for detail, subtlety in styling and approach, precision in execution and innovation and imagination in art direction has resulted in a sea of change in the manner in which we even perceive an image today.

Given a choice, no other constraints, film or digital?
Both have their own charm. It’s like saying Test Cricket or T20?

What do you think of the current state of Print Advertising photography in India? Is it at par with the work done worldwide?
Print advertising has evolved many folds in India. Not only in terms of ideation, even in terms of execution, we have achieved very high standards. Not only photography, but in many cases, even CGI has had a major role to play. Several jobs done here today are definitely at par with the work done worldwide.

Where do you get your inspiration?
From sounds of nature to people on the streets, everything influences my thoughts and ideas. I keep an open mind, as one never knows what might trigger that ‘Eureka’ moment. No matter where I am, be it in a coffee shop or in the middle of maddening traffic, I keep looking around. I often shoot such moments with my iPhone. Works of different artists also influence me. Whenever I get a chance, I try and collaborate with different artists to not just create but to learn and get inspired. This year too, I did two calendars, one with the dance maestro, Astad Deboo in Mexico and the other with the sculptor, Arzan Khambatta in Mumbai.

Was there any time when you wanted to quit photography?
I would be lying if I said no. There have been times, when the work at hand hasn’t challenged me creatively or technically. There have also been moments when the demands of the job have been unreasonable to the point of being silly. Sometimes things have seemed monotonous. Thankfully, such instances have been few and far between.
What’s your dream project?
Several. But if I had to choose one, it would involve travelling across the globe and collaborating with artists, designers and models from varied ethnicities to create a seamless confluence of different worlds within each frame.

Who would you want to spend a dinner with?
Since I stay away from my family and the demands of my job don’t allow me much quality time with them, I always lookout for the next opportunity to have dinner with them.

Whats on your iPod?
I like all kinds of music. From classical ragas to rock, from Bollywood’s latest number to Hungarian folk, I love it all. What I play, from Bob Dylan to Munni badman hui, depends on my mood.

Mac or PC?
Mac. Since I have been using it for quite a while now. I guess, I am too used to it.

Ritam can be contacted via his website here.

 

 

Automobile-Apolo-Tyres-Commercial-5

Ritam 05

Ritam 03

Ritam 02

Ritam 01

 

 

 

Automobile-Mercedes-Car-M-Class

Ritam 06

Ritam 07

Ritam 09

 

Ritam 08

 

The post Ritam Banerjee : In conversation with a photographer appeared first on desicreative.

Microsoft Global Media Director Joins Ad Tech Startup

Today we received news that true[x] media, an L.A./New York-based “engagement advertising platform” company, had signed former Microsoft global media director Meredith Brace as its new director of sales for the Northwest region. Brace, with more than 15 years experience at Microsoft and HP, will run the company’s new Seattle office.

We were interested in learning more about why Brace made the move, so we got her thoughts regarding trends on the media side of the industry.

Brace says:
“I have spent many years on the client side looking at solutions to major global marketing challenges.

In my experience, media buying is getting polarized.
continued…

New Career Opportunities Daily: The best jobs in media.

Updates on Leah, the Energy BBDO ‘LEGO Intern’

A few weeks ago, a clever and creative young woman with agency aspirations named Leah Bowman won a bit of attention on this Internet of ours by submitting an account services internship application that starred herself in LEGO form.

You may have heard, via our morning stir or some other party, that she did indeed score an internship with BBDO.

Today we reached out to the newest member of the agency world to learn a little more about the application that went viral.

Our questions and her answers after the jump.

continued…

New Career Opportunities Daily: The best jobs in media.

Charudutt Chitrak : Interview with a photographer

“I would rather talk about me through my pictures than in words. And may be thats why I m a Photographer.”

I have always tried to create pictures that come through self expression, even in advertising no matter how tight the clients brief is .
So you would know something about me in most of my images.

According to me a picture is pointless without a photographers view point a photographer has to put something of himself in every picture he takes whether it is for selling a product in advertising, documenting the truth in journalism or the opulence in fashion.

Why are you a photographer?
Because nothing seemed easier to me, as per me photography is extremely simple and that is what makes it so complicated.
It is one of the best ways to create art and at the same time document life ,photography gives you the power to freeze moments in time, it’s upto you how beautifully you do it.

Do you remember any decisive moment when you felt ‘I want to be a photographer’?
Wanting to give photography a try as a carrier I looked for photographer to assist.
And got an opportunity to meet Pradeep Das Gupta. It was the first meeting with him in his Khirki Studio that comes closest to that decisive moment.
I was in awe of dada as everyone fondly calls him. His personality, his work and his space left no doubt in my mind that i wanted to be a photographer.

Were there any particular role models for you when you grew up?
As I was growing up it was like any other kid in school.
My role models were Arnold Schwarzenegger in Commando, Sylvester Stallone in Rocky and Cobra, Michael Jackson, George Michael, Bruce Lee, Jackie Chan. In short all the role models you can think of from my generation. I was and i am still very easily influenced . It was a great time. Sorry wish I could give a more intellectual answer.

Who was the most influential personality on your career in photography?
My mentor Pradeep Das Gupta.

How has photography changed over the course of the last couple of decades? Is execution/art direction more important than it used to be?
The shift from analogue to digital did not only changed the material, but also the pivotal moment has become a product of a more conscious thinking than what we called an accidental moment. No matter how sure or planned you were while shooting on film there was always something accidental and unforeseen to the extent of being mysterious, which you only realised when the film was later developed. That was the real juice or gift of photography to a photographer. That moment does not exists anymore. You know everything before it is printed, you are too safe and anything can be changed later on Photoshop. Todays digital photography is like knowing everything about your child even before it is born. God forbid if you had the means to design your own child your would never be satisfied and thats what digital is. Analogue is like the excitement, the joy of seeing your child for the first time.

This was exactly what we saw in the work of great masters of photography whether fashion or journalism the beauty of accident.
The technique of execution was a big part of becoming a master photographer (of course the idea was always of utmost importance).
But today you don’t have to be a photographer in the literal sense the line between a photographer and visual artist has burled out.

Today we shoot and shoot till we get it perfect or rather what we think is perfect.
Since technology is in a race to make photography a child’s play, photography has come down to only the exclusivity of subject and idea.
Which kills the romance that once revolved around execution of it, going to locations, waiting for the right moment, fabricating sets, and days of planning a shoot is in most cases has been replaced by green screen with endless days of staring into a monitor.

What do you think of the current state of Print Advertising photography in India? Is it at par with the work done worldwide?
Are you kidding..
Unfortunately today advertising and therefore advertising photography with it, is a money game. Photographers come under the category of vendors
India is going through a phase where quantity is more important than quality. Furthermore the lack of awareness and understanding of art in majority of our population makes it even worse.

To be fair we cannot compare Indian photography to the world because considering the history of advertising photography in the west we are mere infants.

I am not saying that India advertising photography is not at par with the world but there is a lack of personal style and originality in our work which is because photographers here are not encouraged or chosen for a particular assignment on the basis of there personal style but for all the other reasons like rapport, cost factors etc. May be that is why we don’t have photographers in India like David LaChappel, Helmut Newton, Antin Corbjin, Tim Walker, Steven Meisel, who have their own distinct styles. S o much so that sometimes campaigns are designed around them.

Where do you get your inspiration?
From everything around me.
Anything and everything.
Was there any time when you wanted to quit photography?
As they say once a photographer always a photographer.
You just cant stop looking at the world in light, shade , objects, perspective and shapes.

So yes quitting photography would only mean two things not earning my bread and butter through it or when i have nothing left to say.

Any current work in Indian Advertising that you find exciting? Especially Print?
Hoping to see one soon.

Whats your dream project?
My dream project would be to create fashion images influenced by social issues and current affairs. I feel in india our view on fashion photography is very limited to conventional aesthetics and beauty (what ever that means). And this is most evident in the field of celebrity portraits in India. I would really enjoy shooting a series of Indian celebrity portraits in my own way. Something that talks about there achievements, personality secrets etc. Rather than just a beauty picture.

Who would you want to spend a dinner with?
I. Cant think of one person I am more influenced and greater than that.

Whats on your iPod?
I can’t find my i pod may be its lost. But if you want to know what was on it then everything from trance to techno, underground to U2, Sting etc.

Mac or PC?
I am not a techno loyalist.
Which ever is more convenient and simpler to use at that moment.
Currently Mac though.

 

_L8T8189

_L8T8284 copy

 

 

_MG_0479B&W

_MG_2699tone

_MG_4972

_MG_9943

009

029

033

090

095

101

109

113

141

Abrahim&thakur

Ashish-1

headgear18 B&W

 

 

 

 

img 004

 

 

The post Charudutt Chitrak : Interview with a photographer appeared first on desicreative.

Rohit Redkar Photography

Rohit is a man of few words, lets his work do the talking for him. Probably he was attracted to the camera before he noticed the opposite gender ;). As much as he is comfortable behind the camera the situation is totally reverse when he has to smile for the camera.

Why are you a photographer?
It’s the only Best thing I can do in this life. I m leaving my dream.

Do you remember any decisive moment when you felt ‘I want to be a photographer’?
Nothing specific moment, when I decided to be photographer.

I was an engineering student. I was very bad in studies, never enjoyed studying.

Were there any particular role models for you when you grew up?
Outside the field of photography the only person I look upto is Sachin Tendulkar.

Who was the most influential personality on your career in photography?
Umesh Aher and Saish Kambli, my mentors.

How has photography changed over the course of the last couple of decades? Is execution/art direction more important than it used to be?
Earlier as options were few and work was in abundance things were a bit sorted and the photographer took the calls on how he/she wanted to shoot their campaign. The pioneers of photography like Gautam Rajadhyaksha ,Suresh Natarajan & Tejal Patni had given a whole different dimension to photography and youngsters looked upto them and idolized them for their vision to bring fashion and commercial photography to the notice of one track minded Indians. Whereas now photography has become more of an extracurricular activity.

Given a choice, no other constraints, film or digital?
Digital.

What do you think of the current state of Print Advertising photography in India? Is it at par with the work done worldwide?
Deteriorating day by day on the basis of creativity. Indians are focusing more on the quantitative work rather than qualitative. Whereas the worldwide print advertising scenario is progressive and diverse when it comes to creativity.

Where do you get your inspiration?
New day new leaf. Only an amazingly good day which brings forth new challenges and opportunities can inspire me.

Was there any time when you wanted to quit photography?
No. Never

Whats your dream project?
Want to shoot with my favorite actor Mr. Amitabh Bachchan.

Who would you want to spend a dinner with?
My Wife.

Whats on your iPod?
Bollywood and Trance.

Mac or PC?
Mac anyday!

 

 

212

33

18

15

11

10

10_1

8

Teen Boy And Girl 3X2 5

3 3_1

2

 

1

2 4 6 9 13

15

24 28

 

The post Rohit Redkar Photography appeared first on desicreative.